The Say-So’s of Hair on Black Women: 2020s Edition

Kulture Magazine

The Say-So’s of Hair on Black Women: 2020s Edition

If there is one practice that will stand the tests of our times, it would notably be hairstyling practices among Black women. Amid the relentless challenges that kicked off the 2020s—pandemic quarantines, economic inflation, and mental health struggles—one thing remained consistent: Black women gon’ get their hair done!

Hairstyling has always had our backs, from protecting our tresses from harsh weather conditions to raising our self-esteem, and with the range of styles to create and choose from, we’ve always counted on our hair to find solace and expression in a world that often seeks to diminish our light.

Hairstyling movements today are prominent for us Black women, as we embrace our roots by remixing classics from years of tradition or by inventing new fashions. Consider the box braids we used to wear in middle school, for example, this throwback hairstyle has roots longer than the Alex Hayley mini-series. Fast forward to today, it has evolved into knotless braids that can be styled so many different ways, showcasing the boundless creativity and ingenuity of Black women.

It doesn’t matter if you’re talking about the hairstyles that always seem to pop up on your Explore page, or the hairstyles you gaze at on Pinterest, one thing’s for certain: Black women are going to uniquely rename, rebrand, and literally retwist the concept of their hairstyles! For instance, the phrase “jet black, middle part buss’ down” is a new expression that Black women use to refer to sew-ins, lace closure installs, lace front installs, and even silk presses. The creativity is unmatched when it comes to Black women and our hairstyling choices!

However, as much as we are praised for our expressions, we are also ridiculed, leaving our hairstyles at the center of many unpopular and popular opinions. These viewpoints, originating from both external sources and within the Black community itself, seep into the minds of young Black adults, all the while online platforms profit from discussions about our hair. It’s time we shed light on some commonly held and contested opinions about natural hair.


Psst, Don’t You Think Your Hair Is a Bit Unprofessional… 

(Popular Opinion: Natural Hair May Be Unprofessional For The Workplace)

I need to get my hair done before walking into that office! 

Because Black women who wear their natural hair at their corporate jobs are not being professional, right? Or perhaps that's just a tad racially and ethically questionable? It seems like the unwritten rules of the professional world tend to favor the white side.. I mean, the “right” side! According to these unwritten rules, straight hair should be the go-to style for Black women in corporate environments. But God forbid if you dare to embrace your natural curls or coils, because that's just not "the norm."

Now, let's flip the script. Why should Black women lawyers, doctors, professors, and the like feel any less professional because they want to flaunt their natural hair? Essence magazine dives into this issue in their article "Black Women Speak Up About Their Struggles Wearing Natural Hair In the Workplace."

"How is it possible," Essence wonders, "that in a world flooded with quality YouTube tutorials on haircare and countless great products on the shelves that an alarming number of Black women still don’t feel comfortable enough to wear their natural hair in the workplace for fear of judgment, or worse a professional reprimand?"

To tackle Essence's question head-on, let's talk about the perception of natural hair in professional settings. It's often labeled as "unprofessional" because it doesn't conform to Eurocentric beauty standards. Essentially, what's considered "well-groomed" or "professional" hair tends to align with what's deemed acceptable by white society. So, when Black women express the need to "get their hair done" before work, what they're really saying is, "I need my hair chemically manipulated and told that it looks nice by my white comrades!"

It's about time we challenge these outdated notions and embrace the beauty of natural hair in all its glory, regardless of whether it fits into someone else's narrow definition of professionalism.


By the Looks of It…Yo’ Man White, Right? 

(Popular Opinion: Hard Wig, Soft Life)

Nia and Regina walk into a bar and Regina says “Girl no shade, but I can see your lace” and Nia says “Girl ain’t no thang, I’m tryna’ get me a white man!”…

The "bag wig discourse" suggests that when a Black woman wears a "hard" wig—characterized by visible lace and a pushed-back hairline—she's more likely to attract a white man. This conversation has gained momentum on social media platforms, particularly TikTok, often featuring comedic takes and personal stories. The connection between a "bad wig" and the appeal to white men can be traced back to the assumption that Black women who don't conform to certain hairstyling norms may be perceived as less connected to their Black identity.

@modelimposter

QUESTIONS THAT NEED ANSWERS!!!! WHERE IS MY MILLIONAIRE MAN?????

♬ original sound - DamnAfricaWhatHappened

White individuals may not recognize the significance of meticulously laid edges or perfectly styled hair, whereas within the Black community, Black women are upheld to near impossible standards of beauty. Black women should be able revel in the freedom of not worrying what their hair looks like, regardless of their relationship status.


Are You Really Team Dark Skin?

(Unpopular Opinion: Dark Skin Women Do Not Need To Look How You Expect Them To Look)


Skin tone should never limit the range of hairstyles available to Black women. When society assumes that dark-skinned women should adhere to specific colors or styles, it overlooks the broad genetic makeup and versatility of Black women.

Take Brandy, for example. In the '90s, she rocked her signature braids on "Moesha" and owned it! But we never saw her natural hair on the show. Makes you wonder if she even had the chance to explore different looks as a young Black celebrity. Just imagine the style revolution if Brandy had flaunted her type 4 natural hair back then—she could've been a trailblazer for self-expression!

Every woman, regardless of her skin tone, deserves the freedom to express herself through her hair without constraints or expectations imposed by societal norms.


Why Do You Care? You Shouldn’t Care!

(Unpopular Opinion: Your Hair, Your Rules!)

Whether it's the lingering gaze of an older white colleague at work or the outdated standards upheld by certain relatives, everyone needs to get with the times!

The stifling of Black women's hair expression is enough to make me want to teach a crash course titled ENG:101 India Arie Albums. Perhaps that would serve as a neatly packaged lesson for those who remain culturally oblivious, allowing Black women the freedom to flourish unencumbered.

There's a faction within the Pro-Black movement that insists any deviation from natural curls or coils signifies a lack of self-love. But really, who cares? This dissenting viewpoint challenges such narrow-mindedness, highlighting the fact that Black women can express themselves with wigs with different textures, colors, and straight styles while still honoring their natural hair. In fact, opting for straight or colored extensions can be seen as a means of preserving their hair health by avoiding excessive processing. And what about the idea that Black women can’t wear bonnets in public? Black women are subjected to relentless policing of their appearance, facing stricter scrutiny than others—constantly bombarded with messages of “you can’t do this” and “you can’t do that.” But we’re taking back our crown and doing whatever the hell we want, regardless of anyone’s opinion.

Take a stroll through a predominantly Black neighborhood like Flatbush in Brooklyn, New York, and you'll witness a vibrant tapestry of hairstyling practices among Black women within just a few blocks. From bonnets to bedazzled hats, pineapple puffs to ginger buss downs, it's not just normal—it's perfectly okay. And that's exactly how it should be.


Consider these opinions—they may bring a smile to your face or wear you out, but don't let them take over. Let's use them to inspire the world of hair for Black women and carry on a legacy of love through our hair. Reflect on what's reasonable, what's stereotypical, and what's downright racist. Then, make conscious decisions about how you approach your hair. Most importantly, be part of creating a safe and liberated environment for your peers to express their authentic selves. This is my take on Black hair, and it's a part of the legacy I want to leave behind.

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