Cutting Deeper: How The Barbershop Is Shaping Young Black Men
Black barbershops shape young men’s identities, one conversation at a time.
Artwork by Lonnie Ollivierre
For Tj Tillman, the barbershop is like a second home.
As a student in Atlanta, Tj spends countless weekends in a shop (or a dorm) on the city’s westside surrounded by the buzz of clippers, and the sound of lively conversation.
At 20, he recalls sitting in the leather chair, listening intently as older men exchanged stories about love, life, and work. “Some of your first profound memories are in the barbershop,” Tillman explains. You’re taught what teams to root for, what type of women you should and shouldn’t connect with, and even what it means to be a Black man.”
The barbershop has long been sacred to Black men. Since the late 19th Century, the scent of pomades and the rhythm of debates have created an epicenter of cultural exchange. Today, the barbershop holds the same importance.
For many young Black men like Tj, the barbershop is more than a place to get a lineup or fade; it’s an introduction to a sort of family, a space where Black men grow, teach, and learn. Here, young Black men find the role models they’ve always craved.
A Familial Place
Everyone gets a seat at the barbershop. Look left, and you might find yourself beside a young student. Look right, and it’s the state Attorney General. No matter the occupation, political party, or favorite sports team, one thing’s certain: every guy leaves with a fresh cut.
So it’s no wonder barbershops are grounds for brotherhood. Old heads, reminiscent of grandfathers, share wisdom, laugh, and tell stories from their younger days. Meanwhile, young teens, like two brothers, argue about sports. Nothing is off limits in this safe space, and for Black men, a group often told to hide their emotions, these organic dialogues offer much-needed solidarity.
There's also a sense of mentorship that emerges between barber and patron, especially for men like Tj who's been seeing the same barber for years.
“The culture of the barbershop is very family-oriented,” shares Tillman. “Aside from your father, your barber can be one of the most important outlets you have. They are fathers in their own regard, with the other barbers in the shop acting as your uncles...but they all take care of you in a way that makes you look forward to going back for another cut.”
As “unofficial” life coaches, barbers provide advice on whatever is troubling their clients. Many young men walk through the shop’s doors with heavy hearts and shoulders, but they leave lighter with both a fresh cut and a clear mind.
A Shift in Culture
While barbershops are a rare outlet for expression, they’re not immune to the perils of hyper-masculinity.
In some spaces, the atmosphere leans toxic, making it difficult for everyone to feel welcome. Homophobia and misogyny are among the most common issues within the barbershop.
“I remember as a kid, a lot of men would come into the barbershop and complain about the women in their lives,” recalls Clay Hudson, a sophomore at Morehouse College. “All the other men in the shop would complain too and spread harmful ideals about women into the minds of kids like me.”
Barbershops like these can be a reason why men choose to leave their favorite shops. And as younger generations redefine gender roles and challenge outdated norms, some are finding spaces that feel more inclusive.
Eager for a different perspective, Clay traded his familiar, masculine barbershop, for the feminine embrace of the salon. He attributes both experiences to shaping the man he is today.
“Having a woman cut my hair shifted my idea on what the barbershop could be as it relates to gender,” Hudson comments, “It’s like seeing the sometimes toxic but loveable system you grew up in get dismantled, challenged, and critiqued by the women who come in.”
Despite the damage barbershops can perpetuate, Tj chooses to think positively, expressing the sentiment that barbershops are changing for the better.
“At the original barbershop I went to when I was little, people who weren’t super masculine didn't have a place,” he explains, “But now, I think if you’re truly being yourself, you’ll always have a place.”
With younger generations constantly fighting the social restraints attached to gender, it’s only natural open-minded opinions begin to overturn traditional thinking. However, it's up to new generations of young Black boys and men to continue speaking out against prejudices within the Black community.
The barbershop has never just been about getting a fresh cut. Here, many young Black men, a group often overlooked and misrepresented in society, come for the community. From those first steps into a product-scented haven to years of building trust in the people who get all up in yo’ head, barbers and their shops are an integral part of the lives of young Black men.
Comments have been lighty edited for clarity.