Are Black Hair Care Products Damaging Our Curls—And Our Health?
Black-owned companies selling to major corporations could be their downfall.
The Changing Landscape of Black-Owned Hair Care
The attack on natural hair continues, and beloved Black beauty brands are suspected to be the main culprits. In an alarming trend, trusted Black-owned hair care companies are selling to major corporations, and with it comes a wave of consumer concerns over altered ingredients and compromised quality. Mielle Organics, a brand once trusted by naturals for its commitment to Black hair care, is the latest under fire. After founders Monique and Melvin Rodriguez sold to global giant Procter & Gamble, TikTok creators and Black consumers alike reported thinning hair and, in more extreme cases, shedding in alarming clumps.
Sadly, Mielle is not alone in this narrative. Well-known brands like Shea Moisture, Carol’s Daughter, and Cantu have also been accused of switching up their formulas post-acquisition.
The goal seems to be tapping into a broader market, but in doing so, they’re neglecting the very communities that built them up. For those of us with coily and kinky textures, these changes leave us scrambling for products that actually work.
However, it's important to clarify that we're not placing the blame directly on these brands. Rather, we’re exploring a concerning trend and its potential consequences. The changes we’ve seen might not be intentional harm, but they do reflect how difficult it can be to maintain the integrity of products when large corporations get involved.
Losing Sight of the Natural Hair Community
When Black-owned brands sell out to big corporations, they often lose sight of their core customers—those with textured hair. For many of us, this isn’t just frustrating; it’s a major setback. Black communities already face limited access to quality hair products, so when formulas change to fit corporate goals, Black customers are often left on the sidelines.
To add insult to injury, when companies do develop products specifically for kinkier textures, it comes with a higher price tag. These "natural hair taxes" force Black women to shell out nine times more on hair care products than non-Black consumers. Why? Because we often need to experiment, trying and discarding product after product in search of one that works without causing breakage or damage.
Even when a product seems promising, a quick glance at the label may reveal harmful chemicals disguised beneath a veil of natural-sounding ingredients. Thanks to loose FDA regulations on cosmetics, brands get away with mixing nourishing oils and butters with toxic irritants like alcohol, parabens, and synthetic fragrances—all while marketing themselves as “natural” or “organic.” This deceptive labeling preys on buyers who believe they’re choosing the healthiest options for their hair, only to be met with disappointment, if not outright harm.
The consequences extend beyond bad hair days. As more Black women express frustration with natural hair care, some may consider returning to chemical relaxers—a decision that comes with significant risks. The National Institutes of Health (NIH) reports that frequent use of hair straighteners and relaxers increases the risk of uterine, breast, and ovarian cancer. Dark & Lovely, a household relaxer brand, is currently embroiled in thousands of lawsuits, with claims that its products contributed to serious health issues, including endometriosis and fibroids.
What’s truly devastating is that the very brands that once stood as a response to Black beauty underrepresentation are now making choices that undermine the community’s health and hair journey. For years, we’ve been told our natural hair was "unprofessional" or "unkempt," a stigma that these brands initially fought against. Now, in the name of profit and corporate expansion, many have turned their backs on the people who put them on the map.
The gentrification of Black hair products is an insidious example of capitalism at work. What was once ours is being repackaged for wider appeal, leaving textured hair types neglected and exploited. It’s time we demand more from the brands we support. We’re not pointing fingers, but we shouldn’t have to sacrifice our hair, our health, or our wallets just to get what we need.